The fashion aesthetic of the early 2000s—velour tracksuits, frosted tips and so on—have a somewhat mixed legacy, but their roots, which lie in street culture and take heavy inspiration from the undergound garage and D&B circuits, are far more credible and can be traced largely to one man: Walé Adeyemi MBE.

Adeyemi is a British-Nigerian designer who at one time was the creative director for New Era and helped transform David and Victoria Beckham from footballer and ex-Spice Girl into a fashion powerhouse. His influence stretches even further than that, across the Atlantic, where he introduced his the designs of his B-Side label to the likes of Usher, OutKast, Mos Def, Rihanna and Missy Elliott. The grafitti-tagged denim and beanie hats that everyone was keen for? That was all Adeyemi.

This documentary, created by Urban Canyons as part of their Urbanation series of shorts from 2002, visits Adeyemi's studio in East London. Here he explains his style, which he describes as being "somewhere between the curb and the boutique", his roots in the garage scene and how he's translating those for mainstream audiences.

His B-Side label continues to thrive and although his designs have evolved dramatically—as the whole industry has—you can still catch glimpses of those graffiti elements and nods to his roots to this day.